There is always something refreshing about traveling on a train; something traditional, friendly, romantic, and charming. The excitement works up especially when you’re going on an overnight journey. Of course, you’ll have to sleep, but you’d still love to take a peek outside a moving train and let every scene zipping by consume you.

I always prefer to travel by train because it connects the cities well and affords easy commute in-between. Besides every time I look out of the window, there is something new and exciting to see. It’s like watching a movie, where everything’s so real! True, it’s only a glimpse that’s gone forever but not before allowing me a glimpse of life off the tracks zipping by. I love the classic clickety-clack sound of the train hurtling down the rails. Nothing’s more relaxing than the gentle motion, generous comfort, laid-back moments and a whole new world unfolding before you every minute. It’s a full length chill-time adventure that comes with an everlasting thrill!

I dislike a whistle-stop getaway travel. So I planned meticulously before I started on my ten day adventure in New Delhi- the throbbing racy metropolis that dares you at everything.  Chaos, commotion, honking –everything is just unstoppable. The tracks were to take me to the end of the line in Thar desert near Pakistan border. Not that I haven’t experienced anything like it before but the temptation of a journey through the sun baked terrain, the sand dunes and the shining night stars was simply irresistible.

I could never guess what started as a boring ride to the station and a long tedious train journey would eventually unfold a spectacular peek into the north western part of a hugely outwitting country.

Visiting this land of extremes and mysteries was like being pulled into a myriad of stores in quite half hidden alleys stacked with never-ending shelves all stuffed with bright and elegant saris, exquisite rugs, and a host of exotic antiquities. Lined up next to inexpensive oilcloths and convincing knock off books would be a generous scattering of uninteresting stuff and a menagerie of animals nestling in the clutter by the roadside. At first this would be like an assault on your senses. And yet every disorder somehow stays orderly. This part of the country is  vast and cramped, bedraggled and sumptuous but carries promises of nothing less than Seven Wonders of the World if only you know where to look for!

The People

One definite highlight of every trip that I have taken over the years is the people I have met. Like any other place the sheer numbers here too have been overwhelming and there have been moments of intense interactions-sometimes intrusive, but that’s all. A brief encounter to buy a bottle of water, an unassuming buy of a steaming cup of chai and that’s that. People would nevertheless also have strong opinions about where I should visit, eat, pose for photos… and would always be very enthusiastic about sharing their advice. If this is not what you’d been looking for you’d feel exhausted after a while but I guess in most cases this persuasiveness comes from a natural curiosity and an undying intent to help. I didn’t shy away for one I’m a native Indian and for other not-asked-for counseling here usually ends up unnoticed in daily life – and nobody’s offended of course.

There will be people who’d definitely want you to buy their wares. If not them at least from someone they know, a familiar face perhaps. And that’s not freakish either. In this country of surfeit of entrepreneurs, this assertion always help in finding what you’re looking for  or at least get help to spend your money without being duped.

Whatever…somehow I found the din around me soothing, restful and quieting. Though   enduring at times I didn’t find people behaving rude or pushy. As unforgettable as this journey was I never ran short of warm, helpful and friendly people who did leave a mark on me well after I’d returned home.

The Colors

One of the first things that caught my eye was the colors. This land was simply a flaming mad riot of colors. Not that it’s unmissable anywhere else in India but here in the desert every village flashing by the window was a shocking clash of hues.

Once on the firmer grounds I was overwhelmed by the charm of simple smiles on weather beaten faces peering closely to greet and get along.  Every shade of the rainbow was worn in all combinations possible. From bright blue and hot pink kurtis and lahangas, orange and green dhotis and purple and yellow pajamas splashed with throw backs of hand painted Bandhani  and Pichwai  art forms, everything I’d known about color matching simply paled into oblivion. Clashing hues were just everywhere to electrify anybody with a shock of color in stark contrast to the dusty streets.

As if this wasn’t enough  patterns of elephants, flowers and camels in every nook and cranny of dust laden avenues and difficult driveways besides tassels and blingy mirrors on draperies in shops, saris and angrakhas,  made me turn around for a second look every time I strolled by. The spectacular array of jewellery from enormous nose rings, heavy anklets, and ostentatious rings would make anyone feel shabby and under-dressed in comparison. And unlike what people think, all this stuff is actually delightfully comfortable. The use of cotton and loose tailoring is snug comfy and cool even in temperatures of 40℃+. And removing slippers or sandals when entering a shop or temple means you get plenty of barefoot time as well!

It wasn’t exactly a muggy day but warm enough. And I felt wonderful!

The Food

I have always known India as a paradise for vegetarians, but I didn’t quite realize how spectacular it could be until now. I know I must have only tried a minute fraction of the amazing food served up across India, but what I ate here simply blew me away. It changed everything I have known so far about the food in this country. For the first time I was taken aback. The food here surprised me with its brazenly fantastic flavor combinations. Where else would you dare add paneer tikka to pizza? Could you imagine broccoli, pineapple and cheese curry creating a divine mix of flavors? Or even Cashew nuts and Sultanas (dried green grapes dried to rich golden brown larger than raisins or currants) perfecting a curry base that dances with mind blowing flavors? There is of course nothing subtle about this fusion food but you could never really add much of anything- salt, spice or sugar as well!

Curries apart, I had heard a lot about the fried desserts from the desert. Although I didn’t get to try much, I indulged into a quintessential Rajasthani sweet Ghevar, a honey combed style deep fried delicacy that is delightfully crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.  Although I did try to taste as many different sweets as possible, I got caught by the sweet creamy richness of ‘Mohanthal’. Made from gram flour in a rich fudgy texture, garnished with almonds and pistachios and flavored with cardamom and saffron this sinful desert quickly became my hot favorite; one that I couldn’t resist repeating. I have tried this same dish in a variety of ways across the Country but the boldness of the flavors here remains unrivaled.

Dining experience here was akin to Russian roulette. I wasn’t eating some one-size fits all curry bought from a caterer and hastily heated up. Everything was freshly made, took time and would often force me to slowdown. But I reveled in it; I enjoyed myself and loved the good time in this land of diversity and contrasts.

Days later as I return to my comparatively boring Sunday ‘not so yum’ dinner with only salt and pepper to cheer it up further, I sorely miss my train journey into the wild plains of Thar- the Great Indian Desert. I greatly miss the tumult, the uproar, the crinkly smiles, the humble whisperings and the ever helpful hands.

Guess I couldn’t long more for anything than a rerun of the voyage to this vast mystical arid land that promises nothing less than a rollercoaster trip into a whirlwind of colors, curries and commotion.